I am a currently-serving Peace Corps Volunteer in Bulgaria. The views on this blog do not necessarily reflect the views of the Peace Corps.


Thursday, December 2, 2010

Fall and Not Cold Yet



After a few over heated, as in too hot to bear, bus rides, I was talking to my mom. This is also after not sleeping much for three days. I could hardly speak and I told her that my life has gotten so boring that I have no stories to share. I said this after having cried (by myself on a bus) from being exhausted. She told me to enjoy this time of having nothing to say because this is not usually the case. She is too right. The next day, I shot my last photo on the roll and forgetting to push the release button I wound and wound and wound until I snapped the film, lost a bunch of photos and got too much light on all the rest (see photos below). Anything but cool, that's me. Glad I have this for my yard to enjoy walks everyday; that helps a little.

More Halloween




Halloween 2010





Halloween is Halloween

Anton





My brother Joe would be hanging out with Anton every day. Anton was born in Siberia. He grew up in the village I live in in Bulgaria. His girlfriend lives in the Ukraine. A lover of life.

Sunday, November 28, 2010

One man in the World

Two Roses = Two Loaves of Bread




Zagreb, Croatia

Tony Kukoc or John Stockton?



This little kid was making the weirdest sound, pouting all over the street. Santa Clause has crossed him off the list. (on the street in Zagreb, Croatia)

The Street




This is an awesome, steep street in Zagreb, Croatia and I felt like a Lego man walking in my Lego world.

Your Grandma


Saturday, October 23, 2010

Zlatograd, Bulgaria



What year is this? Take a guess.

Pointing it Out



Old men, excited by what they see.

First Day of School



When I was in grade school I got into plenty of trouble but I always did my homework. There was no such thing as not doing it. Now that I'm the teacher I can't believe that some kids don't do their homework. These students always do their homework.

Walnuts



Every time I run up the mountain, I take in the beautiful sights and this time of year I pick an apple or two and eat them on the way down. Without fail though, I get sidetracked before I make it back down the mountain. The other day, I accepted an invitation from my neighbor (pictured) to go to his house. He played me songs on the accordion. Later we went for a walk. He took me to a walnut tree and began cracking walnuts, eating them and handing them to me to eat. I was amazed though because he doesn't have any teeth.

Hello Chris Sikora



I'm out of focus but the tree branches are in focus. You can see that I'm healthy. I couldn't be having a better Saturday, staying in and getting work done. Miss you.

Hello Blake Thomas!

Old and New



One girl in traditional garb, the other in present day stuff.

My Mom





My parents came to visit me. These photos are from the Black Sea. I love the Black Sea. Some people complain that it's too touristy and overrun with eyesore hotels. In some places that is the case but not everywhere. We had the best time here (near Varna) and then enjoyed the nearly void of tourist beaches near the Turkish boarder.

The second photo is of my mom and dad playing in the water. They were so much fun to be with. True to form, I managed to screw up some plans and directed us to the wrong hotel. We ended up at a hotel for families with little kids. It was more of a cabin really. Turned out to be a lot of fun though.

The third photo is of a little kid, having so much fun, who my mom enjoyed watching.

A. and K. in the Mountains




The man and woman in this picture have become very good friends. No one in the village wants their privacy blown so I'll call them A and K. From sun up to sundown it's work for this couple. When I have free time though, I disturb their work. A. built a gazebo that overlooks the mountains of Greece. He's got a television inside and we usually watch crummy television, Turkish soap operas mostly. A. smokes and K. brings in fresh watermelon, roasted pumpkin, pears, grapes...depending on the season. Today we watched the "Miss Silicone Contest," as ridiculous as it sounds.

I was glad that my parents got a chance to meet some of the people who are so kind to me.

Monday, September 27, 2010

I Cooked a Bit for Unharsh Critics



From left:
Vlado. He studied economics at Sofia University, took advantage of a study abroad program that brought him to Montana. Later, he got a job at Yellowstone National Park. He has since lived in Chicago, Detroit, and now has settled with his awesome girlfriend, July who is from Uzbekistan but they met in Chicago, in Mt. Prospect, a suburb of Chicago. Vlado and July spent Easter with my family this year and I spend many nights with Vlado's parents in my village (he's from here). They miss their son but he's working and has made a life for himself in the U.S.

Anthony. I met Anthony after a performance of 'The Brothers Karamazov' at the Lookingglass Theater in Chicago. My brother played Dimitri Karamazov and Anthony was my brother's understudy. Anthony's father was born in Bulgaria; Anthony is an actor living a little bit of the time in Los Angeles. Anthony is currently living in Poland and working as an ensemble member of a Polish theater group but he makes it back to L.A. as needed.

Justin. Justin was born in NYC and to NYC he shall return. This photo though, was shot in my apartment in Bulgaria. Justin and Anthony are making a film in Bulgaria that will be great. They took the 7 hour bus ride to my village to see the sights down here and hang out. They agree that it was very worth it.

Scott. Scott is a Peace Corps Volunteer who was visiting me. He is from Petaluma, CA and he's an all around nice guy. He recently traveled to Poland and got into the mix with Anthony's friends. Oh, and all of these guys met up in Sofia, plus Vlado's older brother who is a lawyer there. I couldn't go though because I had work over the summer.

Sunday, September 26, 2010

Iliyan & Andrea



This is a video of Iliyan and Andrea. They're Bulgarian pop stars. I shot this backstage at a concert this summer. I don't want to explain why they're rad but they performed, pleased the fans and kept going.

George & Alex



How come I have to tell all the stories? And, who are these kids and why are we hanging out together?

When communism ceased to control Bulgaria, a boy named George who had been running a chicken farm with over 50,000 chickens, single-handedly, applied for and got accepted into a program called 'Future Farmers of America.' He moved to Wisconsin in 1991. After working at farms in Minnesota, Pennsylvania and New York, he was ready for the city and moved to San Francisco.

Enter Brueger. Brueger, when he was only known as Poindexter, got a job at a hip bar/club in San Francisco. I would go there often, getting to know the owners and their wives, the guys at the door, Brad and Malcolm - legends for sure, and hanging out with one of the bartenders.

Go forward 12 years and I am hanging out with that bartender again, in his homeland, Bulgaria. These photos were taken in Sofia and in Sozopol and they are of the sons of George's childhood friend George. The boys' names are George and Alex. They are my friends.

If I'm in Sofia, I hang out with George and he lets me borrow books like Winnie the Pooh and The Wizard of Oz, in Bulgarian.

Wednesday, September 22, 2010

RILA




There is a mountain range in Bulgaria called 'RILA.' I'd been wanting to visit it, along with the Rila Monastery, since I came to Bulgaria. This summer, I finally got the chance. I don't like carrying stuff so what you see me wearing in this photo is all that I brought. Luckily, I borrowed a sweatshirt from someone; it got cold at night. My friends and I woke up at 6 in the morning and hiked up to the Seven Lakes. The lake that I'm standing in front of is called 'Kidney.' We were the first ones there, had the whole place to ourselves. I worked out the kinks from a crummy sleep, worked up a sweat and then got to lay on a rock and enjoy the moment. If you get the chance, visit Rila. She is gorgeous!

Manowar



A warm summer day. A walk in the park and I spot this young couple unafraid to show their love for one another or their love for Manowar. I told them the story about the lead singer of Manowar, Eric Adams, calling my house when I was 12. My oldest brother had been in the Manowar fan club, The Army of Immortals, since it began in 1987. Eric Adams was calling long time fans. When he called though, only my mom was home. She knew a lot of his songs from driving my brothers and I around and us always playing Manowar in the car and told him what big fans we are. I told the couple this story and they loved it, especially because my mom was with me and she doesn't look like a typical Manowar fan.

Around the Fountain



My parents were visiting me and we had been walking around Sofia all morning. We sat down in a small park to rest and drink Fantas. I began talking to this little girl and her grandmother. She was very shy but soon we were talking about Winnie the Pooh and she was telling me about all of her stuffed animals. Her favorite is a monkey.

Friends 2


Friends 1



All Day Online

Tuesday, August 10, 2010

Checking in on Your Summer



I decided to make an English class for adults this summer. It's about 200 times more work than I imagined but it's so much fun for me. I teach a class in the morning and one in the evening because I figured that a different group would come for each session. The same people from the morning come in the evening though, plus more people. So much for one lesson per day; I have to plan two.

When I'm not teaching I'm doing everything else that someone 1/3 of my age would be doing.

I can remember, 18 years ago, going to school before 6th grade was about to start and one kid told me that he was bored this summer and that last summer was better. No way. Each summer, better than the last.

Saturday, June 19, 2010

Room Service





Here he is. The one who left me a plate the other night. Such delicious food.
I love this kid. He is bigger than books and teachers let you believe life can be. One day we ran up the mountain together; he excused himself half-way up because he had to shovel some manure and we caught up for the run down the mountain. He was wearing flimsy rubber shoes, less than a Ked. He's super smart but not the kind of smart that people easily recognize.

Thursday, June 10, 2010

Kindness of Neighbors, I Think



Walked outside to buy some bread. 2 minute walk to the shop. Ran into friends Elza and Zlatka. I told them that I heard that Danielle has a black rose in her garden. They said I was correct. She has a black rose. She has maybe 200 roses. Pink ones, white ones, red, purple, champagne and a tall black beauty. After admiring the flowers I walked with Elza to her garden and we picked strawberries and ate them. Then I ran into Nasko and he told me his sister is in town. He had just run out to buy smokes. I ran and bought bread then joined his sister and him at the cafe. After a few hours I came home. There is no light in the stairway leading up to my apartment so I pretend I am walking through a cave every night. Tonight there was a treasure. Someone, I have no idea who, left me a still hot dinner.

I hit the bag with the door as I opened it. There was a bowl full of grape leaves and cabbage leaves stuffed with rice and maybe meat of some sort. They were delicious. There was also baklava, delicious. I feasted! Nothing like stumbling upon a home cooked meal. I'm sorry for Justin Bieber because in an interview he said that fans often send him candy and food but his mom doesn't let him eat it. He has 187 million views on Youtube for that track with Ludacris. Guess you have to protect yourself at 187.

Just a ramble for a second before I do the dishes. With the end of the year national tests taking place, I had to use the computer room, instead of my regular room, to teach English today. I was alone with the 8th graders. It was fun. I let them look at whatever they wanted. One kid played Justin Bieber, 2 Live Crew and Twisted Sister videos. That is amazing. How does a 14 year old boy, living where he lives, know 2 Live Crew and Twisted Sister?

Wednesday, June 9, 2010

Village Newspaper


I am happy to say that I made the first issue of a village newspaper. I'm proud of it. And, people like it.

Two days after printing, the mayor called in an order of ink, and everyone knows how expensive ink is, and an entire village jumped on board.

We did three interviews and one 8th grade girl wrote an essay about the environment. I wrote an essay and hyped up my partners. Just wanted to let you know. I'll scan it in later. It's all in Bulgarian but I'll translate.

Monday, May 31, 2010

ESSAY on MIGRANTS


(this photo is not from Bulgaria but I recently received it and it's o.k. for the following, an essay I just wrote on 'MIGRANTS')

Same Game

I celebrated like I was part of the team when the Chicago Bulls won their first NBA championship in 1991, and in a way, I was. After having watched or attended nearly every game that season and proved my grandpa wrong—a Detroit Pistons fan who claimed that Michael Jordan was a one man show who’d never lead his team to the Finals, let alone win—I ran outside after the Bulls’ victory to join the neighborhood celebration. Mr. Ristonovitch, who was born in Serbia, and Mr. Walsh, who was born in Ireland, were shooting off bottle rockets and lighting Thunder Bombs with kids whose families had lived in the neighborhood for a couple generations. Lucretia, an old woman from Poland, only flicked on her light to see what the commotion was, and just as quickly, flicked it off. Surely, there were others who just read about the victory in the next day’s newspaper.

Although there were only 12 players on the roster, coaches, and a few ball boys, a world of people took part in the Bulls’ championship in 1991, as well as their loss to the Detroit Pistons in the Eastern Conference Finals the year before. The Chicago Bulls were more than just a few men dribbling basketballs. Ticket sales, advertising during televised games, merchandise, newspaper headlines and magazine cover stories, a hero for kids who wanted to ‘be like Mike,’ as well as a target for adversaries of the franchise, were all part of the phenomenon. I use this example of a professional basketball team, and its far-reaching affects on culture, economics and society, to explain the way in which all people are migrants. The only thing that differs from person to person is the degree to which he or she is a migrant. From this understanding, one will not have to rely on a law to guide one’s treatment, acceptance and encouragement of migrants. Instead, that treatment will reflect one’s treatment of self and friends, and with that personal touch, we’ll be ‘getting it right.’

There are four degrees of migrants and I will continue using the NBA franchise example to explain these degrees. The first is the migrant himself or herself. This is the player and the coach. Their hearts are exposed. They’re on the court or in the huddle, taking the bumps and bruises that come with the terrain they’ve taken to. They provide entertainment and inspiration, open up dialogues between people from different cultures and from different backgrounds. They enjoy the praise and bear the pain that comes with the challenge that they’ve undertaken. This first-degree migrant is the Peace Corps Volunteer in Bulgaria. It is the villager who leaves home to study in Sofia, Plovdiv or Smolyan, as well as those who travel to Greece, Spain and Denmark to work as drivers, harvesters and servers.

The second degree is made up of people who have a vested interest in the franchise or the players. For the NBA team, these are players’ families, advertisers, TV stations and gamblers. For migrants, these are also family members who don’t get to see a parent or child because he or she has left home to pursue work. While family members may benefit financially, they miss out on spending time together as a family and the village itself loses some of its positive role models. This group includes politicians, legislators and owners of businesses who employ migrant workers. They are very much involved with the laws regarding these men and women. Jobs, money, and reputation depend on these ‘players.’ The United States Government and a Peace Corps Volunteer’s co-workers and family also comprise this group

The third degree of migrants are people who are conscious of the fact that men and women from various societies and from differing political and economic backgrounds have left home to find work because their needs weren’t being met at home. These migrants correspond to fans and foes of teams in the NBA. These fans cheer or boo but they don’t remain silent. Carrying this example further and outside of the pro basketball realm, this third degree migrant is someone who understands that such contact will enrich his or her own life. And conversely, a third degree migrant may avoid contact with people they see as ‘foreign’ for fear that such men and women will take away jobs and spoil the status that they themselves have worked to achieve. Third degree migrants are also students who have a PCV as their English teacher. These are the villagers who have formed relationships with PCVs, those who have intentionally stayed away from PCVs, as well as locals whose conversations around the dinner table have been affected by the presence and influence of a volunteer in their village. A third-degree migrant is not necessarily relegated to this status only.

The fourth degree migrant is rare. This is the person who has no direct contact with migrants and isn’t even conscious of their existence. While this qualification may seem to contradict itself, I argue that the 91 year-old woman, who has never left her village, is a migrant. Even if she does not know anyone who has left her village for work, the jobs available in her village, are affected by migrants. And, similarly, the person who isn’t conscious that the NBA team exists, doesn’t watch the games or read the newspapers, is affected by the far-reaching economic and social effects produced by the team.

We don’t act in a void. Everything we do affects us, the doer of the action, those around us—whether they have a vested interest in us or whether they are conscious or unconscious of our existence—and ever more apparently, the world itself. The implications of our actions run ad infinitum and shape the world, from the attention we give to a particular cause, to the way we greet or ignore a stranger, choosing paper or plastic, or following or not following a sports team. We cannot count on legislation alone to direct our treatment of migrants. Instead, we need to begin by recognizing that we are all migrants.

A migrant is a symbol of change and while change can be frightening, terrifying to some, as Heraclitus said over 2,500 years ago, “All that endures is change.” The degree that one is a migrant may change too, but now, as we are all humans, we are all migrants, and recognizing and embracing this will enable us to reap the benefits of celebrating our differences and learning from one another.

The 2009 Human Development Report states, “Migration has the potentiality to greatly improve human welfare if we ‘get it right.’” This ‘getting it right’ does not come from regulations but from a migrant’s own personal touch to the work he or she does. The Peace Corps provides this personal touch. Instead of only providing technical aid, the PCV instills a quality of humanness in that aid. The PCV builds up those with whom he or she comes into contact by recognizing the others’ humanness, not simply filling a quota.

We don’t only teach students about our culture and traditions but we organize Halloween parties, show films in our village and play basketball after school. We travel to neighboring villages for Ping Pong tournaments to show our support of the participating students. We share meals with host families and new friends and learn about their culture and traditions. After helping men filling out applications for seasonal work, we don’t simply say, “Good night.” We go out for coffee with them and listen to their hopes and fears. We set up informal classes to teach basic language skills. We help write letters. We share photographs and stories about our families with co-workers and neighbors.

Our role and our actions in Bulgaria must constantly be evaluated because what might seem right today will not serve tomorrow. By adding a personal touch to the work we do, and living as migrants among migrants, acknowledging and respecting our differences, we’re on our way to ‘getting it right.’

Memorial and Forgetorial Day




There is a Bulgarian shoe company called Bulldozer. The shoes are not very durable but they’re simple and comfortable and if you think about your feet while walking your feet tell you that they’re doing fine and that you shouldn’t worry about them. I’ve got three pairs in black but it’s getting warmer and I woke up the other day thinking about white ones. How can I get white Bulldozers? I talked to someone who talked to someone and someone else drove my size in from another town.

I went to get them at a little store in my village and in the store was this really nice girl. I told her that I was going to walk up the mountain and ride one of the horses and that I wanted her to walk with me. We walked and talked. I couldn’t convince her to ride a horse. She said that she was scared of horses and when I stopped to pet a cow she stepped back and said she was scared of cows. It struck me as strange; I just didn’t get her fear.

Then I asked her, “How is your love life”? She told me about a guy she likes who hasn’t returned her text message and she doesn’t know why. She was a little slow with the details but they came and I broke down how I could imagine he was feeling and then told her that maybe she is a horse or a cow and he is scared to touch her. So corny, I know but I’m not a Bulgarian speaking pro yet.

I said goodbye and turned off the main road towards the farm. When I arrived though, no one was there. I figured I’d wait and began doing pull ups on a bar the farmer made to practice gymnastics. 50 was my goal. I haven’t done pull ups in a while so it took a lot of sets to get to 50. An 11 year old girl wandered by, wanting to ride a horse too. She laughed at me because at this point I was struggling to do 2 pull ups in a row but I got to 50. After we’d waited for an hour she asked me whether I wanted to come to her house and see her new baby goat. ‘Of course,’ I told her. A baby goat is my new favorite animal after playing with three of them last week.

We walked through a small forest, saw a mushroom that looked exactly like a mushroom from Super Mario Bros. It was red and white. I’ve never seen a colored mushroom before. That was awesome. Before seeing the baby goat we walked into her house and her mom was sitting at the kitchen table starring out the window. We hung out and talked a while and then went into the girl’s bedroom. She wanted to show me her posters. She had about 40 posters of horses on her walls. Her mom and I and her talked some more and I was remembering kids’ rooms from when I was 11.

We saw the goat and all of her hens. One was separated from the rest because another one didn’t like it and pecked out one of its eyes. It was a clean peck and the hen lives.

Across the way I saw an older couple who I really like. They were working in their garden. I said bye to the girl and her mother and went to talk to the couple. I picked strawberries from their garden and rinsed them and we ate strawberries. The man pulled out a garbage bag full of tobacco leaves, diced some of them, laid them in the sun to dry for a few minutes and then began rolling cigarettes. I smoked a cigarette and then ate a soggy cookie that was offered to me. We sat around watching Turkish soap operas and then my favorite guy came through. He is 58 and he goes to grade school. You have to have graduated from 8th grade to get a driver’s license in Bulgaria. He has a motorcycle and wants to do some work that requires having a driver’s license. He needs to be official.

We were way up in the mountains, staring out at the mountains in Greece and my phone rang. It was my brother. I told the man to sit next to me and listen to me talk and tell me what words he understood. My brother gave me the update on my nieces and sister-in-law and we shared some stories. Afterward, I had to give the man a ‘D;’ he only understood, ‘hello.’ That’s a start.

My friends gave me spring garlic and potatoes from their garden and I began walking home before it would be too dark to see.

I ran into an old woman with four silver teeth on the bottom and no teeth of any sort on the top. She was probably 60, very slender, had a soft yet striking face and she was carrying a load of hay on her back. We talked for a while and as she turned one way and I continued straight. I met a baby. I helped her put her coat on. I’ve never helped a baby do anything before. Then I ran into a girl’s dad who is in my 6th grade class. He walked me to his garden and plucked some lettuce and parsley for me and I got home just before a heavy rain. I ate all my food and needed to zone out and not do anything for a minute so I punched the keys.